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Hansen & Gretel, Albus Lumen & More

The Owner Press by The Owner Press
May 16, 2025
in Business News
Reading Time: 29 mins read
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AFW Day 4 / Picture: Nicol & Ford

Day 4 of Australian Vogue Week (AFW) got here collectively in a spectacle of vitality and unbridled creativity, providing a masterclass in inventive depth and sartorial storytelling.

From oceanic spirituality to archival activism, every assortment reworked the runway into an area for reflection and reinvention. Hansen & Gretel’s AURA opened the day with a present awash in serenity, Albus Lumen adopted with AMOR, Marina Afonina’s off-schedule intimate tribute to a decade in enterprise, the place familial muses, Casetify collaborations, and the signature monochrome palette provided a love letter to inventive evolution.

Within the afternoon, Iordanes Spyridon Gogos perked up the day with an explosion of color, texture and soul-searching. His newest assortment was a private patchwork of reminiscence and pleasure, blurring the road between artwork and wearability with gleeful abandon.

Lastly, in Newtown’s moody Vanguard theatre, Nicol & Ford resurrected Weimar Berlin with PARRHESIA, a wealthy and emotionally charged homage to Magnus Hirschfeld and the forgotten archives of queer resistance. Their off-site present was each celebration and elegy, conjuring the decadence of ELDORADO membership with exacting craft and community-led casting.

For the total present breakdowns from day 4 at AFW, learn on.

Hansen & Gretel

For Resort 2026, Hansen & Gretel returned to AFW with AURA, a set that shimmered with vitality and ease. “This assortment is all about auras—how vitality, color, and emotion could be felt by means of the garments,” stated Ainsley Hansen, the model’s Founder and Artistic Director. “It’s concerning the ambiance a girl creates when she walks right into a room.”

Impressed by the rhythm of the ocean and the unseen glow of non-public auras, AURA unfolded as an immersive runway expertise, full with green-lit carpets and a customized ambient rating that pulsed like the ocean’s present. “AURA is a research of motion, vitality, and the unseen forces that form us,” Hansen defined. “It’s this sense of fluidity and connection that H&G needed to seize, each visually and emotionally.”

The 41-look assortment merged fashionable bohemian magnificence with a sun-drenched surf sensibility. Wave-like prints and aura-inspired gradients swirled throughout sheer silks and gauzy layers, whereas sun-bleached textures and hand-done embroidery introduced an artisanal sensitivity. “Every print displays that convergence between pure parts and human presence,” Hansen famous. Inexperienced and blue auras guided the palette, symbolising development, therapeutic, calm, and instinct.

“By way of print, fabrication, and type, AURA invitations the wearer into an area the place the ocean’s pulse meets the glow of their very own presence,” the designer continued.

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Iordanes Spyridon Gogos

In a present that blurred the strains between artwork, trend and heritage with visionary bravado, Iordanes Spyridon Gogos returned to AFW with a deeply private, genre-defying spectacle. Identified for his maximalist aesthetic and collaborative spirit, founder Jordan Gogos continued to reframe trend as a dwelling, respiration expression of identification and course of.

“The one approach it actually interprets onto the runway is thru onerous work and persistence… I take photographs of my textiles… and weeks later overlook about them, after which extra weeks go by and I discover the magic in one thing,” he defined to GRAZIA forward of the present. It’s this intuitive alchemy that provides his work its unmistakable vitality—a kinetic collision of texture, color, and contradiction. “If somebody stated, hmm, they don’t actually go collectively, then it made me prefer it extra.”

This season, the artist-designer drew from residencies at UNSW and the Australian Tapestry Workshop, the place textile experiments turned sacred artefacts. “The piece created on the Australian Tapestry workshop was so epic… every ‘color’ in a tapestry includes 12+ colors… that’s like my dream,” he stated. “The work is admittedly private to me—so many various moments in my life accumulate to what I put out—it’s by no means an overarching anchor level, [but] I do assume that gentle and motion subconsciously play an enormous position within the textiles.”

A movie, created with Motel and starring Gogos himself, set the tone for a present that pulsed with self-reflection, gentle and a rebellious spirit that bites the thumb at conference. “I needed to be the supply of sunshine, the vessel for the shifting picture by means of self-portraiture,” he shared.

From 3D-printed footwear by longtime collaborator Olivia Bellevue to shrine-like clothes embroidered with private pictures, each piece was saturated with feeling and individuality. “I’ve to actually fall in love with one thing for it to go on the market… and love is advanced and complicated… however that’s additionally one thing I like.”

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Albus Lumen

Marking ten years of radical magnificence, Albus Lumen’s Resort ’26 assortment, AMOR, was a love letter to founder Marina Afonina’s world and what she holds expensive—previous, current, and future. Held off-schedule within the uncooked, intimate basement of Mass Practice, the present was draped in sheer plastic and emotion, with 33 seems to be that traced a decade of favor and connection.

“In celebration of Albus Lumen’s 10-year anniversary, this assortment is an ode to like,” Afonina shared. “It’s all about creating items that I might put on and that I might need the Albus girl/man to have.” This season, love wasn’t only a theme—it was embodied. Afonina’s personal mom took to the runway alongside muses like Tessa James, Jordan Gogos and Hayley Bonham, every representing the female spirit that has formed the maison.

The gathering was a sensual interaction of nostalgia and modernity with a twist of opulence—monochrome, crystal accents, and sheer textures danced between Capote lyricism and La Dolce Vita glamour. “Each bit holds a decade of non-public and artistic evolution,” stated Afonina.

Jewelry by Ryan Storer and make-up by Filomena Natoli added richness, whereas Albus Lumen’s collaboration with CASETiFY injected a recent spark—personalised equipment worn by Maxine Wylde, Rowi Singh, and Lynn Harris lent a contemporary counterpoint to this deeply intimate celebration of legacy and self-assurance.

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Nicol & Ford

For his or her fourth consecutive AFW displaying, Nicol & Ford delivered a cinematic triumph of queer storytelling with PARRHESIA, an evocative, immersive runway staged at Sydney’s restored Vanguard theatre. Impressed by Magnus Hirschfeld—the pioneering German sexologist whose early Twentieth-century advocacy for queer and trans rights modified the world—designers Alexandra Nicol and Katie-Louise Ford distilled an array of archival reverences right into a curation of wealthy, textural trend that challenged, seduced, and honoured.

“Each assortment we create begins with a narrative,” the designers defined to GRAZIA. “We love diving into the lives of historic figures… this yr, our assortment, PARRHESIA, is impressed by Magnus Hirschfeld.” After months of analysis in Berlin, Hirschfeld’s legacy emerged throughout screen-printed motifs and references to his now-destroyed Institute for Sexual Science, based in 1919 and later tragically obliterated beneath Nazi rule.

Within the moody gentle of The Vanguard—a nod to Berlin’s ELDORADO nightclub, as soon as a haven for queer expression—fashions from the duo’s personal inventive neighborhood took to the stage in seems to be that performed on type and narrative. “We don’t see conventional dressmaking and conceptual design as opposites,” Nicol & Ford assert. “They need to complement and communicate to one another.”

Customized-dyed and screen-printed silks, reimagined Nineteen Twenties “half dolls,” and silhouettes recalling Jeanne Mammen’s femmes embodied the model’s message: celebration in defiance and efficiency as craft. PARRHESIA not solely mourns the erasure of queer histories however affirms the energy of contemporary visibility and unexstinguishable delight.

Each aspect supported a theatrical imaginative and prescient in an exhilarating concord, from styling by Miguel Tan, make-up and hair by Nicole Thompson and Richard Kavanagh, Phoebe Hyles’ jewelry, Beau Esposito’s moody rating and Julian Dimase’s latex work. “By staging our runway at The Vanguard, we’re celebrating the decadence of queer efficiency and its protected areas,” word the designers. Unfolding as each homage and resistance, PARRHESIA stands as a love letter to the resilience of queer artistry—its magnificence, its politics, and its refusal to vanish.

Pictures: AFW through Nicol & Ford

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matters:
AFW 2025, Australian Fashion Week, AFW, fashion, Fashion news, fashion week, Fashion Shows, Runway, Hansen & Gretel, Albus Lumen, Nicol & Ford, Iordanes Spyridon Gogos, Trending, CASETiFY, Resort 2026





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