In Paris, Daniel Roseberry kicked off Paris Haute Couture Week with ‘Icarus’, a Spring/Summer season 2025 collection that pays homage to Schiaparelli’s storied legacy whereas exploring a deeply private narrative of workmanship and creativeness.
On the coronary heart of the gathering lies an opportunity encounter with vintage ribbons from the Twenties and Thirties unearthed in a small store. These delicate treasures, imbued with colors like saffron, butter, mink, and a wealthy burnt brown aptly named “toast,” set the tone for Roseberry’s newest feat. As he wrote in his show notes, the designer considered these items as an invite to journey again to Haute Couture’s biggest days.
“I spent months finding out the good chapters of nice couturiers from varied a long time: Madame Grès, Charles Frederick Value, Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, and Azzedine Alaïa,” he writes. “I didn’t wish to copy their work; I wished to be taught from them.”
These ribbons and the tales they instructed impressed him to create a group that feels each nostalgic and visionary. It boldly rejects the notion that modernity should equate to simplicity or that opulence and minimalism can’t coexist.
The silhouettes transport us via a century of celebrated couture. “Liquid deco” robes echo the slinky magnificence of the Twenties and Thirties, that includes fragile silk georgette embroidered with Japanese bugle beads, which had been sculpted into sharp, dramatic hip blades. Architectural Schiaparelli jackets have been streamlined and paired with Nineteen Nineties-inspired bias-cut column skirts, whereas the Fifties golden age is reinterpreted in padded A-line child doll attire dropped from the hips and rendered in a luxurious leather-like satin cuir adorned with the home’s iconic motifs.
Roseberry’s knack for mind-boggling innovation shines via his experimental strategy to materials and approach. Feathers brushed with keratin obtain the burden and texture of Ginger Rogers’ Thirties costumes, whereas a plissé halter gown in sand-hued polyamide tulle presents a contemporary, structured tackle founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s elegant robes.
This playful craftsmanship extends to equipment, delicately handled and embroidered with Matador cording and resin rosettes.
In a flurry of textures, shapes and silhouettes, Roseberry’s pursuit of extra is as inspiring as ever.
“Haute Couture aspires to achieve nice heights; it guarantees an escape from our sophisticated actuality. It additionally reminds us that perfection comes at a value. How excessive can we couturiers go?” notes Roseberry. “As excessive because the solar—and the Gods—enable us.”
